Bus journeys in India usually leave one irritated, uncomfortable and bored... This one, courtesy UP State Tourism, was no different despite the “de luxe” tag. The air conditioning had broken down and the passengers – serving members of the armed forces and their dependents – were sloshing somnolently in their own sweat. Cramped, with both legs gone to sleep and a throbbing headache, my then 16-year-old self glumly contemplated a wasted weekend at a Corbett National Park overrun with day trippers scaring away the wildlife. As we approached Ramnagar, the situation began to look up. The dessicated plains with their forlorn stands of withered mango trees and scraggy eucalyptus gave way to denser growths of Sal, Kikar and Mohua trees. It was very like being in some medieval European cathedral, with shafts of dim emerald light lancing dramatically through the vaults of the majestic trees as though filtered through stained glass windows. The cool scented air was better th...